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~We are a full service shop commited to building customs.
ENGINE SWAPS TURBOCHARGERS/SUPERCHARGERS NITROUS OXIDE SUSPENSION TRANSMISSION / CLUTCH DIAGNOSTICS / TROUBLESHOOTING ECU CHIP BURNING WIRING & ELECTRICAL CUSTOM FABRICATION PIPE BEAD ROLLING CUSTOM BODY MODIFICATION CHASSIS MODIFICATION AFTERMARKET PARTS & ACCESSORIES
Whats new... STARTING JANUARY 1, 2009 OUR NEW OFFICE HOURS ARE MONDAY THRU SATURDAY 10AM - 6PM , AND SUNDAY 10AM - 4PM. WE ARE NOW ACCEPTING PHONE ORDERS!
6-8-2009 *Reminder: for those who have been contacting me for qoutes, please don't forget to include your year/make/model/& condition (scale 1-10 is fine),also a time frame you need the work done by (for my customers in the military) if deploying will be an issue. *Got the gas tank into the merc (see pics below). *More pics added to gallery.
NOW STOCKING GENNIE SHIFTER PRODUCTS.KNOB ADAPTORS FOR BOTH IMPORT AND DOMESTIC VEHICLES! OVER 40 DIFFERENT KNOBS IN STOCK,THESE ARE SICK!
*SEMA SHOW 2008 was a blast! Here's a few of my favorites.
PRESS RELEASE ON SKUNK 2 RACING'S B SERIES HEADER. AFTER A HIGHLY ANTICIPATED RELEASE DATE SKUNK 2'S B SERIES TRI-Y HEADERS ARE FINALLY AVAILABLE! UNLIKE SOME OTHER BRANDS THE MEGAPOWER HEADER'S ARE 100% ARGON BACKPURGED WHEN ASSEMBLED (WELDED), WHAT DOES THAT MEAN TO YOU? EXCEPTIONAL STRENGTH AND FINISH. COME IN AND ORDER YOURS TODAY.
10-2-08 *an old article i found from the 808scenezine featuring our shop. *Sun Automobile's Hyper Voltage MR puts down impressive numbers on our customers Infinity G35!Power made was across the board (note:the pink and light blue).
7-30-2008 *Thanks to all who showed up for our sale,and congratulations to the winners of the free dyno session! We have events scheduled for August 1 and 2nd. and a HUGE one you can't miss in the works for late in August (stay tuned for details) so mark your calendars and be sure to pay us a visit.
6-16-2008 *Now Hawaii's Dealer for SKUNK2!
9-28-07 *NEW PROJECT(owner: kirk nakamura) 1956 FORD CUSTOMLINE *Check back for updates.
8-28-2007 *thanks megan & mish (Cherry Blossom Cabaret) for helping out at streetcar showoff 2007! Also thanks to everyone who lent a hand kevin,todd,aldric,chad and steven for detailing the ae86,LT fab.,monk for giving up all those spare parts,jesse for rushing my rally rims i never got to use yet,billy whitney from 808tattoo/sindication island underground,if i forgot to mention anyone i apologize...you're much appreciated!
7-29-2007 *an important message from my daughter!
SHOP PROJECTS
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SPEEDSHOP STREET CIVIC
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AE86 "D"
SOLD
story of the speedshop battle 86
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 work 15x9 -14 front |
 work 15x8.5 -22 rear |
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 run free, cut for shipping |
 the infamous bubble knob |
 stacks for the ITB setup |
 RIP 86 / our donor car in okinawa |
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 bonded back together |
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 manual rack conversion |
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 CUSCO latches |
 build the track day at aloha tower market |
The body is done, now we'll
move onto building the motor....
 high comp block |
 blue top crank |
 stock bore |
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 blue top pistons |
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 HKS cams 288/272 |
 ae101 ITB's |
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 TODA gears |
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AE86 Transplant SOLD
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Vision
This car started out as a automtic sr5 with very little rust.
Originally I wanted to do something nobody had done yet in Hawaii.
Before this we had done the 4agze, ae101 20v, and a handfull of
4age swaps into the sr5. I wanted to try the 3sgte swap and keep
it toyota but the prices on upgrade parts are just outrageous
and hard to come by! That's about when one of my friends came
up with the idea (or more like a dare )to put the sr20det in it.
Yeah yeah I know all you ae86 fans are saying it's blasphemy!
love it or hate it...we did it regardless.
Step 1: Dropping it in.
 Engine Mount |
To my surprise everything was pretty straight forward all that needed to be done was make custom engine mounts and trans mounts to get it in. we decided to drop the subframe about a 1/2 inch to get a good angle on the driveshaft, for hood clearance, and so we didin't have to bang out the trans. tunnel to much. When that was done we moved the engine and trans as far forward as we could go just to get the shifter into a place where it wasn't hitting the e-brake everytime you shift into 2nd,,4th,or reverse, then Welded the mounts to there new position and ~voila~~ it fits like a glove. |
If you are thinking about trying this swap I would really invest in getting a manual rack set-up before doing your mounts, it'll give you waaaay more room to work with especially when it comes time to fabricate the downpipe, and for extra clearance when replacing the clutch. Note: I went with a v-mount set-up but this swap should fit fine with the ae86 radiator in it's stock location.
step 2: wiring the motor.
By far this was one of the easiest motors to wire into the sr5
ae86's. you need to extend the 02 sensor plug, the AFM plug, and
alternator plug. Then hook up a few power and ground wires from
the SR main harness to the Toyota harness and you're done, pretty
simple huh, We thought so.
Note: being the sr5 model is carb. Not EFI, it has no existing wiring for a fuel pump. So I wired an inlne fuel pump (see pic below) to a relay instead. If it was a GTS model you could still wire the harness to turn on an in-tank pump.
 Fuel lines to pump |
 Fuel Pump & Cell |
step 3: fabrication (the fun part, thanks lance!)
Notice how the downpipe just clears the steering shaft and the frame rail. |
I would have to say the downpipe is a real pain in the ass to do. We started with tracing the pattern of the stock turbo exhaust gasket and had one cut out. Since a 3" pipe cannot fit thru the opening between the steering column and the frame rail we had to use a 2.5 inch pipe and massage it in there then expand it to 3" at the bottom. There is very little room for anything to pass thru, even getting this downpipe (see pic) on requires us to remove the steering shaft to gain clearance. A v-band clamp would have worked out well but unfortunately we didn't have access to one at the time, so we worked with what we had. |
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The engine mounts are stock sr20det mounts mounted to a modified ae86 cross-member and the transmission mount is a solid mount made out of square tubing and ¼ inch flat bar. The original intercooler set-up wasn't a v-mount (see pic), it was kind of a last minute decision which led us to a lot more fabrication from placement of the B.O.V. (see pic) ,to the cooling lines (see pic), down to the cooler itself everything had to be re-done in order to fit and function properly. To fit the shifter (see pic), a new hole had to be cut into a fabricated piece of sheetmetal that fits over the transmission tunnel then welded into place. Finally the driveshaft was custom made using the sr20det yoke and the ae86 differential yoke, the stock Toyota 2 piece driveshaft design was tossed out and the new unit was made into a 1 piece driveshaft. |
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the "low-down":
Currently the motor is running with stock internals @ about 9
psi. it feels really good and has a hard time maintaining traction
all the way thru 3rd gear. We haven't had a chance to dyno the
car yet and I am planning to raise the boost to about 14psi and
see what happens.
The car still has a lot more work that needs to be finished up, unfortunately I rarely find the time to work on it.
My friend is running another sr20det ae86 down here and is currently hitting about 340 HP to the wheels stock internals. I probably won't be going to that extreme...yet. You can check out his car below.
 update 9/14/2006 |
 update 9/14/2006 |
 update 9/14/2006 |
Now back to my 86 (see below)
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SPECIFICATIONS
engine/fuel:
stock sr20det redtop; JWT ECU; custom fuel rail; 550cc injectors;
ford cobra maf; e-bay special turbo manifold; sx performance fuel
pump/filters; koyo radiator AE86; custom intercooler (bell intercoolers);
blitz bov; hks 14psi wastegate; morosso coolant catch; NRG oil
catch
suspension:
10kg front tanabe pro210 springs; KYB AGX front struts; shortened
front case (Lt fabrication); tein adj. camber plates; tanabe strut
tower bar; autopower 4pnt. Cage; c-pillar bar; ueo front bomber
support bar; cut rear stock springs (for now); stock rear shocks
stock; ae86 kouki lsd rear end
electronics:
defi control unit II; defi 52mm link meters; pivot tachometer;
pivot analog a/f gauge; greddy turbo timer; greddy boost controller
(manual); sun auto hyper ground system type-m
rolling and stopping:
brembo x-drilled rotors; super blue brake fluid; 15x8.5 0 et ssr
mesh/ federal 195-50-15; 15x9.0 0 et ssr mesh/ federal 205-50-15
interior/exterior:
kouki trueno front bumper; zenki lip; vertex sides; origin rear
bumper; some kind of knock off spoiler; c/f hood w/ belistik vent;
smoked lights; paint by tech one customs; corbeau fx1 seats; nardi
wheel nrg quick release
*now for all you people out there complaining to me about how the sr20det messed up the well-balanced AE86 check back soon because I am going to put the car on scales to figure out how the weight transferred compared to before. I can't wait to see the numbers myself it should be pretty interesting. I will also be posting the dyno run.
DYNO RUN COMING SOON!...
*SPECIAL THANKS:Belistik Crew, LT FAB, Sun Auto, Federal Tires, Bell intercoolers, Tech1 Customs, monk.
66
Impala ~ Belistik
Rat
~ in progress
COMPLETED
Before
Vision
we will do everything in house. When it's done we should be left
with a wicked looking beast, ol school!
A work in progress
When the car first came to us it had no interior in it , no
brakes, 4 different rims, no windows, but the body was pretty
straight and it started up (which was pretty amazing being it
sat for years!).Now for you import guys reading this…. the 66
impala came with 4 wheel drum brakes non-power assist, this needed
to be addressed since we are trashing the stock motor and dropping
in something a little more punchy, the stock drums just won't
cut it. Thanks to "white boy" we scored some spare front drum
to disc brake conversion brackets. we yanked the brake master
, booster, and proportioning valve out of a 8? Monte carlo ss
that we bought for a couple hundred bucks along with the engine
and transmission hoping we could make everything fit in the impala,
which we did successfully.
 Monte booster/prop. valve/master ~Installed~ |
 Monte Carlo SS brake booster |
 70-77 Camaro calipers, 69-72 Chevelle rotors |
we're "rat" like that so we're just cutting out the big problem areas of rust and patching sheetmetal back into it instead of ordering all new body parts like the floor pan or trunk (which actually would be the right thing to do)….fuck that, we ain't rich.
 rear well patches |
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 driver floor patch "welded and seam sealed" |
Upon putting the car up on the lift we saw that the mounting point for one of the trailing arms had been completely ripped out of the frame (see pic below).
hole-y crap!
So we needed to make a new mount and weld it back into place (see pic below).
 replacement plate for frame |
 trailing arm back in place |
As of now the bodywork has been completed, so we are in the process of painting the car.
 mark hard at work |
 we paint without spray booths!!! |
 Where'd the rust go? |
 Here are the fender wells finished |
 The engine bay complete |
 Closeup on the color |
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Check back later to see the progress...
BELISTIK RAT UPDATE 7/2/2006
The Belistik Rat got its body painted and is slowly going back
together. This project got a August '06 deadline but As you can
see (below), we've got a long way to go.
 Body "Hot Rod Black" |
 new bracket for the prop valve completed |
heineken power |
BELISTIK RAT UPDATE (pics)9/14/2006
update: 1-11-2007
we actually finished this project by our due date less a few minor things. I'm really glad we got a chance to build it, even though it was a pain in the a$$ to work on i would have too say that it's also one of the most satisfying builds i've done for awhile. I can't wait to get the bags in and take it on a long drive! As for now we still need to put in the air bags, switch out the dubs for some 15" hubs and we're back on the street raising hell!
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COMPLETED
EF
TEST VEHICLE - superlap series
(OR AS WE LIKE TO CALL IT THE TEST-HICLE):
Vision
This car is the one we use at superlap series (time attck). We
purchased the car in great condition from a local towyard for
$300. Unfortunately it was the DX model (DPFI fuel efficient P.O.S
with probably around 80 hp.) but the body straight and the a/c
was ice cold so we couldn't refuse. Now since we were on a strict
budget (actually NO budget) for this car we decided to just
race with the stock motor until we blow it up.
Frankenstein
I had some used coilovers (the cheap sleeve type) laying around
along with some used front upper, rear upper, and rear lower strut
braces. I set the suspension up backwards (hoping to reduce understeer
in the corners by letting the front dive down easier and gain
some traction), 6kg front and 8kg rear coilover springs on the
stock struts, added the strut tower bars, then gutted the entire
interior. For the rims we used some 15x7 spoon knock-offs, heres
the funny part…since we couldn't afford to buy 4 good tires we
bought 2 falken 615's 205-50-15 for the front and used falken
ze512's 205-50-15 on the rear ( don't ever try and do any racing
on these ze512's, they are awful!). for the final touches we added
a race seat and a nardi wheel for competition and we're off
!!
The first event we attended was a real learning experience. With basically a stock car that was gutted we got bumped into the "unlimited class"…go figure?? Oh well no use crying about it, we just wanted to see if those generic parts really worked, so we paid the fee and signed in for our number (4UF or car number 4 unlimited FWD class). Surprisingly the car felt really good around the turns even with the major lack of horsepower we could still enter the turns at a decent speed. But after a couple of laps we lost all braking, the day was over for us really quickly. But We managed to put a time of 46.74 on the board. For the next superlap we flushed out the 15 year old brake fluid and replaced it with superblue fluid (this stuff works wonders!!), put in x-drilled rotors, and fresh stock pads. we also pounded the fenders out because we wanted to to see what would happen if we spaced the rims out an inch in the front and rear and added a tachometer so we could tell where the hell I was shifting at. From the first race I really liked the way the car was handling but I thought we should lower the car another inch and do an alignment, backyard style( which is done with a tape measure, and the good ole calibrated eyeball).
 Nothin that duct tape can't fix! |
This time I really got to push it because the brakes were working perfectly and I could brake a lot later coming into turns. We ran all day with no problems, except for a small crash coming out of the chicane that left our front bumper smashed into a few pieces. |
We managed to drop almost 2 seconds off our previous time to hit a 44.9! But still, if you look at the posted times on the link below you'll see that the time we are running is up there with the Subaru's and some other vehicles with 2/3 times the HP as our civic has….we are way outclassed in HP. but not too far behind.
http://www.superlapseries.com/Results/octresults05.htm
The low-downI guess you don't have to put a lot of money into your car to have a lot of fun at events. Just try and put together a good working combo and you should do fine. Since then, I did pick up a 90 crx si motor (we finally get to use 4 injectors) but am still looking for the si transmission, so if anyone wants to donate one to the cause please feel free!! I am figuring with the extra hp and the gearing from the SI A6 set-up we should be able to hit high 42's but only if we can scrounge up enough money to buy 2 more tires to match the fronts!
Until the next track is built, we're on hold………
Specifications
engine:
1.5 dpfi (dx) motor bone stock; transmission stock dx 5 speed;
stock headers; stock intake pipe removed filter; stock exhaust
cut off muffler
suspension:
front upper strut bar obx; rear upper strut bar obx; rear lower
stress bar obx; nrg modified engine torque damper; stock struts;
nrg coilover 6kg front 8kg rear
brakes:
stock pads; super blue brake fluid; x-drilled rotors
wheels:
spoon knock off 15x7; 205-50-15 falken st615 front; 205-50-15
falken ze512 rear; 25 mm spacers front and rear
interior:
gutted corbeau forza2 seat; nardi steering wheel w/ nrg quick
release
electronics:
spw tachometer exterior: fenders flared out front and rear; ricer
graphics (the best power adder on the market)
misc.:
rear mounted battery; morosso battery disconnect
EF UPDATE 7/1/2006
The EF is getting re-done since we don't have a racetrack anymore.
We've decided to chop the mutherfucker up and "mirror"
our impala for an upcoming show! We got a 2-month deadline on
this car -- August '06 is our target.
update: 1-11-2007
*below you'll see a pic of it completed...we didn't even get too have fun with it becuase immediately after the august show someone bought it from us....oh well it was interesting while it lasted!
*and for you people who emailed me about the pics of the wires below....that was a wire tuck/shaved engine bay we did , the wires you see is all thats left of the main harness but running thru the frame rails (so basically lights,fan,horn....the inside shot is the main harness pulled into the cabin along with the (engine bay) fuse box, ignitor, map sensor, and the fan relays, ground points , etc. And the inside pic of that thing sticking up sky high is our extended shifter.
 the sportmax 002 15x8 0 offset |
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 re-working the fenders |
 finally get to scrap that D15! |
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 welded in a frame... |
 ...for the coffin |
EF UPDATE 9/14/2006
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COMPLETED
SOLD
